Tuesday, 20 January 2015

Angkor Wat, Siem Reap Cambodia

The ancient capital of the great Khumer Empire, Angkor is beyond doubt, one of the most magnificent wonders of the world. for nearly six centuries, between AD 802 and 1432 Angkor was the political and religous center of the great Khumer Empire, which once extended from the South China Sea almost to the Bay of Bengal. 
The remains of this metropolis now occupy 77 sq miles of northwestern Cambodia, and although its wooden houses and palaces decayed centuries ago, the stunning array of stone temples erected by a succession of self-styled god-kings still stands. Ankor today contains around 70 temples, tombs, and other ancient ruins. Today, after clearance of dense vegetation, restoration and conservation efforts continue.
Among them is the stunning Angkor Wat (temple), the world's single largest religious complex. Angkor What is within a moat and an outer wall 2.2 miles long with three rectangular galleries, each raised above the next. At the centre of the temple stands a quinunx of towers. Unlike most Angkorian temples, Angkor Wat is oriented to the west: scholars are divided as to the signifiance of this. The temple is admired for the grandeur and harmony of the architecture, its extensive bas-reliefs, and for the numerous devatas adorning its walls.


Angkor Wat by Charles J Sharp


Causeway to Angkor Wat
Stairs to the top Angkor Wat (70% incline)
Sunset from the east side of Angkor Wat

Devada dancers
Ta Prohm Temple where Tomb Raider was filmed.
The Trees of Angkor
Bayon Temple, giant stone face, the Lord Buddha

Sandstone figures of the Terrace of Elephants
Phnon Bakheng (Take your sunset picture here)

Everyone takes pictures 

Temple of the Tour Buses




Monday, 19 January 2015

Siem Reap Cambodia.

Cambodia is one of the poorest countries in the world. This fact does not escape your thoughts as you take a tuk-tuk drive out into the countryside where the people live along flat, dusty roads in homes without electricity or running water. Wood and charcoal smoke and dust permeate the air as schoolchildren pedal their bikes, in their white and blue uniforms to and from school while their mothers set up stands to sell candy and snacks to the community.
This is a country that lost so many people to the brutal Kumer Rouge in the 70's. Today along with many created educational, health and business programs, in an attempt to break the cycle of poverty, there is also a concerted effort to facilitate and transform the country through arts.




We saw an exciting evening performance of the Phare Cambodian Circus under the red tent. Disadvantaged orphans tell a story about ghosts with acrobatics, energy and talent while reviving the Cambodian arts scene.
Artisans Angkor, "caring for the past, crafting for the future" was a stop where i watched artisan employees, carving stone and wooden traditional figures. An employment program for over 1300 people. Cambodian craftsmanship that dates back to the days of the Khumer Empire is revived through stone and wood carving, laquerware, silk painting and silver plating. Lions, asparas, nymphs and bas-reliefs of ancient scenes are chiseled out of stone and available for sale. After visiting the Angkor temples and this workshop I gained a new appreciation for artisans working in stone!


The burgeoning town of Siem Reap serves as the gateway to the temples of Angkor.
Cambodia is one of the poorest countries in the world.
It's foremost a tourist centre with a packed Pub Street, some rural ambiance and a renovated Old French Quarter with places along the river for a stroll.












Tuk-tuks are everywhere and a popular way to access the Angkor complex, as was our choice.Thank you "Charlie" his tourist name and "Sovanna" his real name .
(See post on Angkor).












Our very last day we ventured out 30 km into the countryside, bumped along the reddish clay-like roads to Banteay Srey Butterfly centre, the largest in SE Asia. A young Cambodian explained the butterfly life cycle to us and we saw rare free-flying moths and exquisite butterflies.












A nice interlude before our stop at Cambodia Landmine Museum where a sensitive exhibition highlights the continuation of work to eradicate the country's many landmines.



Let's hope Cambodia can continue to rekindle and preserve it's rich cultural heritage.

"Art washes away from the soul the dust of everyday life" Picasso

Friday, 9 January 2015

Boat trip on the Mekong river Laos


Day 1 Luang Prabang to Pakbeng, overnight  then next day back to Luang Prabang. 9 hours on the river upstream and 7 hours downstream.
Our boat, over 100 feet long.
Inside the boat, complete with restaurant, bar, washroom, comfy chairs and cushions and blankets to lay on.
Visited the Pak Ou Buddha caves. Upper and lower caves housed over 4,000 Buddha statues.



Some of the many boats and scenes on the Mekong








Glad we didn't take this one.

Wednesday, 7 January 2015

Tat Kuang Si Waterfalls, Luang Prabang, Laos

January 7/2015 started off bright and sunny, visited the ATM and became an instant millionaire in Laotian KIP, actually less than $150 CDN.


Sally and I rented a scooter and drove 32 kms out through the Lao countryside to the Tat Kuang Si waterfalls located in a tropical rainforest.



We hiked a steep trail to the top of the falls. Only a few tourists make the climb to the top and when we got there only a few tourists were around. I was lucky enough to be able to swim alone in the sparkling turquoise pool, cool and refreshing.



Scrambled down an even steeper slope to view the 160 foot high main falls.
Goggle:  http://twistedsifter.com/2010/07/25-stunning-infinity-pools-worldwide/
Tat Kuang Si waterfalls is one of a few natural infinity pools. 
There were lots of tourists in and around the lower pools but we were still able to get pictures without them.




Leisurely scooter ride back to Luang Prabang, stopping to photograph water buffalo and sample fruit from one of the many roadside stands. In all an enchanting day ending with a sunset along the Mekong River.



Tuesday, 6 January 2015

Luang Prabang, Laos

Luang Prabang is billed as the most beautiful city in South East Asia.
This small city (50,000), in the northern centre of mountainous Laos has charm and atmosphere with a blend of French architecture and Asian culture. Known for its Buddhist temples and geographic location, where the Nam Khan River joins the Mekong, it was easy to walk around the old town portion and visit bookstores, shops and restaurants. 

Our initial first impression certainly noted the change in temperature as being much cooler than Bangkok and also the quietness. Laos is the essence of "laid back" and this atmosphere of "Lao-ness" is defined by Buddhism. It also helps that Luang Prabang is also an UNESCO World Heritage Site and large buses and trucks are prohibited from the centre!



Our guesthouse was riverside with a second story balcony and we loved our view of the passing boats on the Mekong River "mother of waters".




Our first day here we wandered around town and down to the Utopia restaurant where we shared a spot overlooking the Nam Khan River. On a rickety platform filled with backpackers we tasted our first BeerLao and felt ourselves shift down the gears, feeling more relaxed. A place of zen and the menu says "Please don't rush embrace it, you have no choice"......so what if  it took an hour for the meal to arrive. Apart from the backpackers we really noticed that there were more tourists our age, a change from Thailand. We also didn't expect it to be such a busy tourist destination.



What do do next? The number of  signboards on the main street were overwhelming with day trips and tour options; elephants camps, village visits, trekking, biking, etc. So we began some research and an idea struck. Since we both like being out on the water why not cruise the Mekong? We discovered that through Shompoo cruises we could travel upstream on the Mekong, stay overnight in Pakbeng and return the next day. Not a common option as most folks travel to Huay Xai, to cross the border into northern Thailand, but it sure suited us.
(See river cruise post).



Wat Xieng Thong, known as Golden City Temple was our first temple stop. This complex of 20 structures is the oldest and most historic in the city dating back to 1560. The main temple was richly ornamental with a "tree of life" designed mosaic on the back wall. Another interesting temple with a unique low sweeping roof, housed a 12 m high funeral urn chariot. This Royal Funerary temple features gilt panels of erotic episodes on the exterior walls. Darn it, I only just read this!






Ho Kham is also known as the Royal Palace Museum and was the royal residence until 1975 when it was converted into a national museum. Footwear and photos are forbidden inside. On display are diplomatic gifts from other countries and many religious objects including rare Buddhist sculptures from India, Cambodia and Laos. Of particular interest were the many depictions of rural Laos life in murals made with Japanese glass in the King's reception room.



One late afternoon  I climbed the 328 steps of Phousi Hill, in the centre of Luang Prabang. This prominent hill provides a 360 degree view and spectacular sunsets. On the way I passed religious shrines including a reclining Buddha and a sitting Buddha surrounded by followers. I was able to take photos of the setting sun over the Mekong yet had to jostle other tourists for a spot.





Every evening at 5 p.m. the Night Market opens in the centre of Luang Prabang. There was a wide variety of textile handicrafts in tents that sprawled along many blocks. Laotian women in stands, sold smoothies made from the fruit of your choice or baguettes with a selected filling.



Such different cuisine in Luang Prabang with many fine restaurants to try so we used Tripadvisor's recommendations, we actually dined at 3 of the top 10. The Aspara is where we sampled our first sticky rice with buffalo cheeks and then at the Tamarind we sampled a starter plate of black mushrooms, peanuts, sunflower seeds, sea grass, rice cakes with BeerLao. The Laotian coffee was great and grown in the country and dinner with spicy sausages was served with an array of side dishes; chili sauce, ginger sauce, sweet and sour sauce. Mekong fish is always on the menu and the fish is steamed and wrapped in bamboo leaves for serving. 

On a visit to a restaurant/bar called the Hive, we watched young Laoatians model ethnic minority garments, a project called ETHINK. An example of the projects that provide villagers with work. The most fun was a trip across the bamboo bridge at night to Pizza Phan Luang with a homemade wood fired pizza oven. A flashlight for the wicked steps and bridge decking would have come in handy!






A wise man once said to a tourist, "Why are you the one with the watch, yet I am the one who has all the time".