Istanbul

First a brief history and some interesting facts about Istanbul.
Early settlement dates back to the 7th millennium BCE, that's 7000 years before Christ.
Istanbul was originally named Constantinople and was the location of four Empires; The Roman Empire 330-395 AD, Byzantine Empire 395-1204 AD and 1261-1453 AD, Latin Empire 1204-1261 AD, and the Ottoman Empire 1453-1922.  
It's position on the historic "Silk Road" along with the only sea route between the Mediterranean and the Black sea and rail lines connecting Europe and the Middle East made Istanbul one of the most important crossroads in the world. During the Middle ages it was the largest city in the world. Istanbul is now the 6th largest city in the world and the only city that straddles two continents, Europe and Asia. In 2012 Istanbul hosted 11.6 million foreign visitors making the city the world's 5th most popular destination.
Needless to say our week's stay only scratched the surface of this amazing city.

One of the very first things you notice upon arrival in Istanbul are the mosque minarets that mark the skyline. There are close to 3,000 in this huge city and some are very old and historic.
I had read about the famous blue mosque with it's blue tiles from Iznik and heard it was one of the top attractions. Bob said semi-seriously that he was only good for looking at one mosque! So we had a glance at the city map and then on a nice, sunny morning set out on foot across the Galata Bridge towards a prominent, giant domed mosque on top of a hill. 

Suleymaniye Mosque

We arrived at the end of prayers, as men spilled out of the doors. As I had never visited a mosque before, I had to observe how to follow the protocol and then covered my head with my scarf and removed my shoes to step inside this large complex. The interior, the prayer hall was so open, the ceiling so high with a beautiful colourful dome and huge pillars, all creating a breathtaking sight. Then my eyes soon found the vast area of carpet where way off in the distance several men were in prostration (forehead to the ground), a ritual way of praying while bathed in light from the high stained glass windows. 

There was a giant circle of lights overhead, a chandelier with globe lights and beside me was a tour guide talking with with several people to whom she was pointing out the ostrich eggs, interspersed between the lights. She explained that this was an old method to avoid cobwebs and ward off spiders!

Ostrich egg

I gazed around the interior, taking photos and looked everywhere for the blue tiles. There was a interpretive series of signs for those unfamiliar with the Muslim religion and there I met up with Bob and asked him if he had seen the blue tiles. I was astonished when he replied, "we are in the wrong mosque. The blue mosque is a 20 minute walk away and I said only one mosque."One look at my face and he led me out the door and away towards the Blue Mosque.

Sultanahmet (Blue Mosque)

More than 20 minutes later we noticed the unique six minarets of another very large mosque with a long line of tourists around the courtyard and also many security men. Apparently the Pope was to visit the Sultanahmet (Blue Mosque), the very next day so preparations were well underway. Once inside I could hardly see for the crowd and it appeared so similar to the one we had just left. However, I finally  did see the beautiful blue tiles along with green and white in lovely floral patterns yet I kept thinking back to the other mosque and how it won my heart as I was able to freely and quietly view and enjoy my first impressions.

 A closer look at a map and it was easy to see how we became confused with the two names, Suleymaniye Mosque and Sultanahmet Mosque  (Blue Mosque). Both are from the time of the Ottoman so look quite similar too. I feel fortunate to have been able to enjoy a visit to both.

During our visit to Istanbul we spent a lot of time on the streets, everyone does.

At first it was simply because the public transportation system was a major challenge for us to decipher. So we walked and walked. 

Istiklal Avenue

Our hotel was just blocks away from Istiklal Avenue, the pedestrian only main street in the Beyoglu District and the very first evening we were directed there. Our first impressions were not favourable as it was so modern looking, jammed packed with people, even though it was night and there were recognisable chain stores like H & M and Body Shop.

We were told that over a million people a day walked this pedestrian street and the next day we walked the entire length from Takism Square down towards the Bosphorous, a distance of 1.4 km. We were becoming slightly more comfortable with weaving through all the black jacketed people so we began to notice restaurants, shops, cafes and see beyond the contemporary to the varied architecture of public and historic buildings, five to six stories high.There was no doubt that it was  vibrant atmosphere and where the Turkish citizens visited too. Here history and tradition mix with modern and chic and in retrospect this was the best example of  a culture at crossroads and the pulse of the city.Where else can you view an old tram and hear live music, watch dancing while looking at at store window with latest European fashions?

Soon we were taking trams, the metro, taxis and ferries to cross over the water and visit the Asian side and other attractions yet daily we were drawn back to walking Istiklal Avenue. 

Takism Square anchors Istikal Avenue and it is a major transportation hub. We learned it was very easy to take the Kabatas Takism Funicular Line and ascend/descend the hill in 110 sec. to connect with tram/ferry. The Square, the scene of previous demonstrations was peaceful and perpetually busy plus also a cultural centre with fascinating art shows at the metro station!Towards our last days in Istanbul we walked through the adjacent Gezi Park where trees still stand thanks to protesters and discovered the grand hotels, restaurants and start of a financial district. To me this is the heart of the city and I mention this discovery as a reminder to myself to take different routes as you never know what is around the corner.

Along with the street sights, it was the sounds and smells of Istanbul that made it so memorable. Ever present were the call to prayers from the mosques reverberating across the streets, the many strong, loud male voices of men and the street cooking odours, air pollution and whiffs of sour sewers. Add to this the misty rain, splashing water, dark and dank alleys and spewing fumes from diesel boat motors and you can picture what photos cannot. Charm with an edge, that's Istanbul.

Our last day in Istanbul we travelled on the metro for over an hour and still were in the middle of this HUGE city! We came to see the sea life at the large Akvaryum. It's focus is on the seas of the middle earth and visitors follow a themed geographical route which coincidentally are those we have visited in our travels so far. Starting with the Black Sea and including the Aegean Sea, Red Sea, the Mediterranean and the East Atlantic Ocean. This visit served as a nostalgic and great review for us and a perfect way to summarise our travels to date, as we leave behind Europe and Africa and leap on ahead to South East Asia.