Luang Prabang, Laos

Luang Prabang is billed as the most beautiful city in South East Asia.
This small city (50,000), in the northern centre of mountainous Laos has charm and atmosphere with a blend of French architecture and Asian culture. Known for its Buddhist temples and geographic location, where the Nam Khan River joins the Mekong, it was easy to walk around the old town portion and visit bookstores, shops and restaurants. 

Our initial first impression certainly noted the change in temperature as being much cooler than Bangkok and also the quietness. Laos is the essence of "laid back" and this atmosphere of "Lao-ness" is defined by Buddhism. It also helps that Luang Prabang is also an UNESCO World Heritage Site and large buses and trucks are prohibited from the centre!

Our guesthouse was riverside with a second story balcony and we loved our view of the passing boats on the Mekong River "mother of waters".

Our first day here we wandered around town and down to the Utopia restaurant where we shared a spot overlooking the Nam Khan River. On a rickety platform filled with backpackers we tasted our first BeerLao and felt ourselves shift down the gears, feeling more relaxed. A place of zen and the menu says "Please don't rush embrace it, you have no choice"......so what if  it took an hour for the meal to arrive. Apart from the backpackers we really noticed that there were more tourists our age, a change from Thailand. We also didn't expect it to be such a busy tourist destination.

What do do next? The number of  signboards on the main street were overwhelming with day trips and tour options; elephants camps, village visits, trekking, biking, etc. So we began some research and an idea struck. Since we both like being out on the water why not cruise the Mekong? We discovered that through Shompoo cruises we could travel upstream on the Mekong, stay overnight in Pakbeng and return the next day. Not a common option as most folks travel to Huay Xai, to cross the border into northern Thailand, but it sure suited us.
(See river cruise post).

Wat Xieng Thong, known as Golden City Temple was our first temple stop. This complex of 20 structures is the oldest and most historic in the city dating back to 1560. The main temple was richly ornamental with a "tree of life" designed mosaic on the back wall. Another interesting temple with a unique low sweeping roof, housed a 12 m high funeral urn chariot. This Royal Funerary temple features gilt panels of erotic episodes on the exterior walls. Darn it, I only just read this!

Ho Kham is also known as the Royal Palace Museum and was the royal residence until 1975 when it was converted into a national museum. Footwear and photos are forbidden inside. On display are diplomatic gifts from other countries and many religious objects including rare Buddhist sculptures from India, Cambodia and Laos. Of particular interest were the many depictions of rural Laos life in murals made with Japanese glass in the King's reception room.

One late afternoon  I climbed the 328 steps of Phousi Hill, in the centre of Luang Prabang. This prominent hill provides a 360 degree view and spectacular sunsets. On the way I passed religious shrines including a reclining Buddha and a sitting Buddha surrounded by followers. I was able to take photos of the setting sun over the Mekong yet had to jostle other tourists for a spot.

Every evening at 5 p.m. the Night Market opens in the centre of Luang Prabang. There was a wide variety of textile handicrafts in tents that sprawled along many blocks. Laotian women in stands, sold smoothies made from the fruit of your choice or baguettes with a selected filling.

Such different cuisine in Luang Prabang with many fine restaurants to try so we used Tripadvisor's recommendations, we actually dined at 3 of the top 10. The Aspara is where we sampled our first sticky rice with buffalo cheeks and then at the Tamarind we sampled a starter plate of black mushrooms, peanuts, sunflower seeds, sea grass, rice cakes with BeerLao. The Laotian coffee was great and grown in the country and dinner with spicy sausages was served with an array of side dishes; chili sauce, ginger sauce, sweet and sour sauce. Mekong fish is always on the menu and the fish is steamed and wrapped in bamboo leaves for serving. 

On a visit to a restaurant/bar called the Hive, we watched young Laoatians model ethnic minority garments, a project called ETHINK. An example of the projects that provide villagers with work. The most fun was a trip across the bamboo bridge at night to Pizza Phan Luang with a homemade wood fired pizza oven. A flashlight for the wicked steps and bridge decking would have come in handy!

A wise man once said to a tourist, "Why are you the one with the watch, yet I am the one who has all the time".